Thursday, December 31, 2009

Kendwa



View from the beach in Kendwa..Dhows at anchor

We moved from Bweejuu to Kendua on the 26th. Our place on the beach in Bweejuu was great but it was time to move on. The main problem with the beaches in Bweejuu was the tides, the reef between the island and the Indian ocean is about 2miles out and when the tide is low you have to walk a mile out through sea urchiuns in ankle deep water to get to some water. Even then you are swimming in 2 feet of tidal 90 degree water not really refreshing, this was compounded by the fact that we ran out of water at the bungalow. So you wake up it's sweltering and all you want to do is get wet and cool off. Shower - no dice, ocean walk for 10 min across this shimmering tidal flat and roll around in a puddle.
Kendua is a little more of a party scene, a bunch of bungalows on a hillside overlooking this beautiful beach. Water is turquois, sand is super white. It reminds me of the whitsunday isalnds in Austrailia. Most importantly their is not tidal flat and you can charge into the water any time of day.
So we have gone on a couple of dives and done a bit of snorkling, we snorkeled at the reef off of Mnemba island. Very cool saw a sea snake for the first time, they actually slither along the deck vs swim which is what I thought. I was able to freedive down to about 15m with a scuba regulator assist at 10m. Very cool to go that deep but next time I need weights to stay down.
Kedwa is the exact opposite of Paje, as I am writing this these two american law students have joined me for lunch. One is literally covered in sand (it's noon) an is relating to me how he got alcohol poisoning last night from Conyagi the local liquor that smells and tastes similar to gin. He then spent the night on the beach in the throws of sickness. He is a big guy 250+lbs and was to big for his buddies to drag back to the room so he experienced sickness and healing on the beach Zanzibar style. He is now relating the part where he drank seawater. Too funny. So this is Kendwa.

Preparations are in full swing for the new years/full moon party that is supposed to happen tonight. We are bracing ourselves for the event.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Melting in Zanzibar

Ok, we are in Zanzibar this beautiful island off the coast of Tanzania. Been here for 5 days now. Connectivity is an issue among other things. We got into Dar on a red eye from Cairo. I have some stories from my 36 hrs in egypt. Will get those up later. We took a charter flight for $65 to Stonetown, spent the night hear and then headed to Bwejuu on the S eastern coast to sit out Xmas. We felt we needed to have a place to hunker down over Xmas and made a 4 day reservation.
First of all Zanzibar is very hot, probably 40C with 95% humidity. So you are basically nonfunctional until you adjust to the heat. I am still adjusting. To add complications to the trip. Zanzibar draws it's power from Tanzania and the underwater electrical cables failed. So there has been no power to the island since we got here, that means there is no ac, no fans and most importantly no credit. So we are on an all cash economy with the ATM's intermittently down. Additionally most water sources require pumps, so you see guys humping 5gal water jugs everywhere. Everyone is scrambling to get generators to power their house, hotel, store....so things are a big chaotic and mostly hot. Just imagine yourself in Haiti in mid summer in 1823 and those are the basic conditions so far. The govt and minister guys in charge of power have allegedly left the island fearing civil unrest, because estimates for getting the power back on are 1 month to 1 year. Apparently  they were 40 year old cables and had a 20 year life.We wanted africa, we got africa....

Will post more on the great place we stayed and the cast of characters we met over xmas.

Gotta run heading north to another beach.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Bwejuu Blues

So after a hot night in Stonetown we set out for Bwejuu the "idyllic beachfront setting" where we would hunker down for Xmas. We had picked a hotel which will remain nameless. This place had a very spectacular website, but was less than spectacular on arrival. At the bar we met Steve, an English psychiatrist, and Jamal an Omani chemical engineer living in Kuwait. Steve showed me his mosquito bites from the night before and my blood literally ran cold. This guy had about 100 red welts all over his right hand and spreading up his arm. His hand was swollen and unusable. This discovery was unnerving at best, I don't like mosquitoes much and the fact that one dude had been savaged that badly in one night was not sitting well with me. We later learned that Steve had been bitten by something else and this was an allergic reaction, but I made some mental plans to heavily dose up on DEET before hunkering down under my net that night.

So after exploring the beach we set out for an interesting evening with Jamal, Steve and assorted other characters at the local watering hole. We were introduced to Conyagi, the gin like local moonshine, the story gets blurry here but we made it back to our room with dignity intact at some point in the wee hours that morning.

From this point on my recollection of the days in Zanzibar get a little blurry. We moved into a beachfront bungalow at the "Makuti beach club" this was a start up hotel by a charming Spanish couple Mabell and Peter (I got to practice Spanish) and Klaus their German local partner. They had been working for the previous two months to get their 5 bungalows renovated and up to speed. These guys were awesome and I don't think I would stay anywhere else if I went back. They had a great staff - Shaggy and Dida, who were amazing cooks. We ate there most of the time.

This is a little taste of a day at Makuti..Wake up late go down for breakfast, chat with Shaggy and Peter, eat. Lounge around the beach and read. I was reading a book a day here. We might have some forays into the water if the tide was in, a couple times in the eve we would take the paddle boat out to snorkel, play with the dogs. Talk business with Klaus, speak in Spanish with Mabell, walk on the beach. Take a nap. About 3 pm Klaus or Peter would ask us what we wanted for dinner, in the case of seafood they would dispatch Dida. He would head out to the reef at catch dinner, I will post the photo's of crabs he got. If we were doing anything other that lazing around it was a major production. The power was out so it was always sweltering, there was no aircon and your ambition to go anywhere or do anything was completely sapped. I now understand why equatorial countries have lower economic output that their northern or southern neighbors. No tv, no phone calls, no internet, no power, sometimes no water. This was Bwejuu. Just hang on the beach and eat amazing seafood. We did go see some monkeys one day, we also made several attempts at a sailing snorkeling trip, mostly I talked Zanibar tourism, hotel operations, and real estate valuation with Klaus. Xmas just involved a bit more drinking.

Monday, December 21, 2009

36 hours in Cairo, Giza, bootlegging and a horse named Michael Jackson

So our adventures with long bus rides have begun. We took the 3pm bus from south of Taba to Cairo. This was a 8 hour ordeal, we arrived in hot and humid Cairo at 11pm. Cairo puts a new definition to city smog and pollution. After a fierce negotiation session with a cabbie, we went to the recommended hotel, they were full so we settled for the red headed step-child downstairs. A little dirtier, a little cheaper but the front desk guy spoke English because he was engaged to a girl from Cleveland and was moving there in the spring. Whilst working as a waiter at the Marriott in Cairo he managed to seduce a tourist and 'ala-kazaam' he was moving to Cleveland. Muhammad took us to a shwarma joint and dropped us off at the nearest bar so we could grab a beer and put out the flames of 8 hours on the bus.

So the next day the mission was clear, see the pyramids and for me get rid of all the winter stuff I packed by sending it home. This has been my 'cross to bare' since leaving Jerusalem, rid myself of an extra 4kg of crap. So we struck out bright and early with our guide to Giza, it was cheap prob $15USDpp. I took a hit off Salim's hookah while we were eating breakfast and I can now safely say I don't really see the point in smoking a hookah. Cigarettes are at least portable and you get your own smoke and don't have to share a Hookah mouthpiece with 4 other dudes in some dirty alley coffee shop in Cairo...I digress.

Anyways after 45 min in the worst traffic jam in recent memory we got to Giza, we later found out the traffic jam was due to a surprise visit by Pres Mubarak to Cairo. When this happens an already tenuous traffic situation becomes hopeless. So we get to Giza, get our tix and get into the site. Despite being one of the remaining natural wonders, the Egyptians have not done much to build up the surrounding area or clean up the place...i.e. pave the roads, clean up the horse crap, (Justin stepped in a steaming pile in sandals on the way out..I was crying) until you get into the Giza site. So we saw the Sphinx and walked the pyramids, very big, very cool and my utmost sympathy goes out to whomever built those things because those stones are big and heavy, and Cairo is definitely hot.




The pressure to ride a camel or horse is unrelenting, and after dismissing several touts. I submitted to the pressure if the guide could produce for me the "fastest horse in Giza". Apparently you can't ride around the pyramids in anything other that a walk, however there are some sand dunes about 500m to the east where I saw many Egyptian kids basically tear-assing around on these mighty Arabian steeds.
The horse idea was in retrospect a mistake, they used this weird English/western hybrid saddle, I was convinced the girth strap was not tight enough and I made the mistake of trying to ride while wearing a backpack with 20lbs of stuff in it. There is a reason you never see photo's of cowboys riding with backpacks, it is very uncomfortable to try and gallop with a 20lb counterweight sloshing around on your back. So getting this "steed" into a gallop was next to impossible and we basically were being chased by the guide who was whipping my horse from behind. (For the record, he was not the fastest horse in Giza) Combine this with the backpack and we are in ankle deep sand, the saddle is sloshing around and these horses have this really stiff short-legged gait. Bottom line the sooner I could get the horse out of trot, canter or gallop the better. After the walk of shame back from the plains to Giza, the guide was nice enough to inform me that the horse's name was "Michael Jackson"...fitting.


So I bailed out of the afternoon session to the other pyramid spot, Justin continued with Salim. I got back to the hotel and tried to do a little research on the internet and after giving an English lesson on body parts to the front desk guy, meeting a guest who thought she was an African queen (literally), and getting some half-assed instructions from the hotel manager I set out into the Cairo afternoon lugging my 4lbs of crap with a hope and a prayer. I went to DHL, FED-ex, and Egyptian post office, and EMS. There are no English street signs in Cairo by the way. No dice anywhere, at least for a reasonable price, the one group that would do it ,EMS, would only do it first thing the next morning. This didn't help me since I was on the red-eye to Dar-es-Salam that night. So broken, sweaty and tired, I headed back to the hotel with my 4kg of crap. In the reception I met Sherife and his buddy Willy. These guys were a pair of typical of chain smoking middle aged Egyptian guys at first glance trying to sell me something. However we started talking, they asked what I was doing with this bag of clothing, I told the whole story and they said well sure we can help you out. I was waiting for the catch. "We will hep you wit dis, if you can hep us wit somting?" Ok guys how much do you want? "We don't need money, but can you buy us some alcohol"...I started cracking up. We are in Egypt you can buy alcohol here, what is the problem? Well apparently they only sell crappy Egyptian whiskey and excessively high priced foreign booze. Sherife and Willy have a taste for the good stuff and were after my 3 bottle duty free quota. After I verified that this was not a criminal offense we tore off in a hurry to the Duty free store, after several cell phone calls involving cousins and collective booze orders, they bought and paid for a few fifths of Jonny Walker on my 3 bottle visa limit.


You gotta love these car bumper stickers where they get the translation wrong


We then spent the rest of the afternoon getting more price quotes and specifics on overseas shipping. Sherrife was surprisingly helpful, however I never pulled the trigger on shipping. You can only imagine Justin's surprise when these two jokers accosted him with the same pitch outside the hotel and began their pitch with we are "friends with Trevor, can you buy us some alcohol".


Sharife and Willy


Sharife correctly claimed he was not photogenic

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Middle Eastern cuisine, a sample of what I’ve been eating in the med.

IMG00054-20091109-1328 

Chicken cous-cous, first night in Tangiers Morocco

IMG00056-20091110-1617

Beef Tagine, Chefchouen Morroco

IMG00074-20091124-1301

The McArabia, Mcdonald’s answer to shwarma. Agadir Morocco. I didn’t eat this someone else ordered it.

IMG00124-20091213-0000

Breakfast of Humus, Pita and veggies, in Palestinian restaurant Acre Israel

IMG00107-20091208-2012

Assorted Salad plates in Tel Aviv, dinner

IMG00091-20091205-1031

Breakfast at Gatwick airport, London

 IMG00079-20091130-0120

Traditional Swedish porridge,  Tagzhout Morocco

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Egyptian border

We took the bus from Jerusalem to Eliat.  It was good to get out of the rain, it seemed like the entire trip in israel was rainy and cold. Anyways, we neglected to get our egyptian visas on thursday and though the consular website stated we could get a visa at the border in taba we heard conflicted reports. So we go through customs and passport control will only give a 15 day visa for the Sinai. This really doesn't help you if you need to get to cairo for a flight to tanzania. So we had to find a fixer. Þhis came in the form of ali a tour guide who attached us to his roster of 700 russian tourists for 50usd. A normal visa costs 15, so we figured that was a pretty good deal. 2 hours later after a bunch of waiting and some shifty under the table dealing with the egyptians and elbowing old russian women out of the way in the passport control line we had authentic egyptian visas. I would expect the same level of sketchyness if I was trafficing small children across borders.
So after the passport control and the 5 hour bus ride through the desert we headed to the taba hilton for a couple of beers to figure out where to stay, how to get to cairo. The hilton was a rare treat, because that was where the 700 russians on the package tour were staying. Its 9pm we are in the lobby bar, there is an egyptian singer doing the 80's phil collins on kareoke. All the russians are dressed in these crazy spandex pansuits and they have had a couple of drinks so they are heading out to the dancefloor.It was a scene out of starwars.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Sinai outside taba


Camel in da trash....
Please Excuse Typos and Brevity
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

Another important site in Jerusalem


We spotted this after coming out of a bar in New Jerusalem last night, right off Jaffa Road.

Hip hop jerusalem style


We saw this one night on Jaffa Road, in Jtown. A little orthodox hip-hop on Jerusalem's equivilant of the third street promenade.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

The holiest of holys

Benn in Jtown for three days, pretty amazing. Considering I have probably only have had about 1 hour of sunday school in my entire life the learning curve is steep. Trying to see everything, Mary's supposed tomb, Jesus's supposed tomb, wailing wall...hitting dome of the rock tommorow. The big thing is trying to understand each site's significance and how it fits in with history Judeaism, Christianity and Islam. You could easily spend a couple of weeks here and barely scratch the surface.

I had a one day trip to TA yesterday, another segway on my rolling commentary on US healthcare. I got my Hep B booster in TA in about 5 min for 55 ILS, $15 USD. It cost me about $250 in the US. I got a prescription and filled it for 90 days of Doxycline (anti-malarial) for about $60 USD. To get the prescription under a PPO in the US would have cost me an office visit and $100, in Israel walk into the public health building and show my ID ask for what I want and why and he writes a scripts. Plus travel meds are not covered by my policy...If I get sick I am coming back here or England.

Anyways, today was the best day so far I think in Israel. Tour of the West Bank. We took a bus to Bethlehem and got a Palestinian cabbie to drive us around (I highly recomend him Fouad 0599-646069) Saw Bethlehem and the alleged Nativity, Mary's milk manger (that is my term) Then we hit Hebron and Jericho. I can safely say I have never understood both sides of the Israeli/Palentinian issue until you have seen the living conditions of the Palestinians and what they have to do to survive in the these cities that are blocked off and controlled by the Israeli army. We drove around a bunch of the settlements, so you can visualize what they exactly are. Plus we got to talk politics with Fouad all day and get everyman's view of Hamas and Fatah. The hangups in the "peace process" and who is benefiting and who is not of the this continuing evolution of dispute. Pretty crazy stuff, the wall is amazing and would make anyone look at the occupation differently.


Hamas vs. Fatah...two jackasses pulling things apart


graffiti on the wall, all by westerners not palestinians

We had the wierdest experience is Hebron, it was very cold today and there was a shaoul (sandstorm) out to the east so the sky was brown with no horizion, we roll through a bunch of intimidating checkpoints in Hebron...to enter this dead city. Most of the business in old Hebron are closed up, business has recently gotten very bad and people are cold and huddled around fires, the scene is pretty like I would imagine an post apocalyptic Arab ghetto. In contrast everyone is warm friendly and greets you with a smile, genuine vs a salesman smile. We walk through these deserted streets and then into this long pathway tunnel controlled by the IAF with 3 of these grated access points and a metal detector. The IAF guys are about 18 and are sitting behind these blast barriers and are basically controlling access through the checkpoint from afar and yelling instructions at everyone. We finally get through and there are soldiers everywhere, we can't go into the Abraham Mosque because they have split up control so the Muslims get access for 10 days then the Jews get access for 10 days. So instead we can go around the corner to watch the orthodox guys bang their heads against the backside of the tomb, but Fouad can't go because he's Palestinian. First he can't cross the street, then he can but only to go into some shop of some Palestinian guy to have coffee. There is no rhyme or reason to the rules. The guys controlling the show are about 18, don't even have facial hair yet are loaded for bear and wear their uniforms like Snoop dog, some have hoodies on some have NY yankee's hats on. It is just the most surreal experience. Bottom line crazy tension everywhere. Then this crazy jewish party van pulls up and these Orthodox party guys get out and start cranking the music up and dancing, it was like a Grateful Dead vanagon and the guys looked like dead fans except they are orthodox and had the long curls- but are dressed like hippies. So these guys are dancing in the streets to terrible music, the other guys are banging their heads against the tomb. The Muslim prayer starts up from the minarets at the same time, the soldiers are yelling at people and some of the Palestinian shop keepers are sitting in their stalls selling nothing and drinking their coffee shaking their heads. Another day in Hebron. So bizarre.


Kids playing, I think that little guy has a slingshot

Sunday, December 13, 2009

The river jordan


No angels in sight.

While leaving the historic site of a bridge over the river Jordan. We were accosted by a well meaning Iroquois prophet and by this I mean he was from Wisconsin. Allegedly 100% Iroquoi by birth, I was surprised learn his name was Ezra. I guess that was his born again name and not his name by birth.

Ezra was a nice guy and we should have seen it coming given the location and circumstances. However he soon shared his vision for the new world order which included a soon to arrive Armageddon in America.This is what happens when you tour biblical sites in Israel....

Mt beautitudes


We visited mt beatitudes today, where Jesus allegedly gave the sermon on the mount. Good view of the sea of Galilee. 5 sheckles for entry and 12 sheckles for a 12oz goldstar. God remained silent.

Acre






I can't figure out how to rotate this, but this guy was selling fresh squeezed pomegranite juice on the street in Acre.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Haifa in the rain


When it rains in Haifa, it pours

Israel-Jordan-Israel-Haifa



Shorlty before the bad news at the border

We hit Jordan like a freight train. In and out to Petra and back from Eliat in less than 24hrs. We drove from Masada to Eliat and were there by noon. We crossed the border to Jordan without incident. After a sketchy cab driver took us for 2 Jordanian Dollars, we got a new cab driver who's secret dream was to be an Formula one driver. He got us to Wadi Musa in under 2 hrs, it was a harrowing ride. I then spent the night in the coldest hotel room in Jordan, 6am we were up and down to Petra. Very cool.

By two pm we were in a cab on the way back from Wadi Musa to the Israeli border. We were then both hassled by some of the most attractive passport control officers in the world.  Justin was also informed by customs that he in fact had already been stamped in Ben Gurion against his wishes and without his knowledge...a pall of negative sentiment toward Israel seemed to settle over the team from the border crossing through the evening.

From Eliat we hopped in the car and drove 450km to Haifa getting in at 12pm.Of note was our wrong turn into W Jerusalem that resulted in us being heckled/harassed by two Hasidic guys for driving on Shabas. High prices, border hassles, unwanted passport stamps, horrible weather and chance encounters with religious extremists is making me want to get to Tanzania early.

Friday, December 11, 2009

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Dead sea day

While Israeli F-15's scream overhead patrolling the Israeli Jordanian border, we spent the day at the lowest place on earth....The dead sea. 400m below sea level we took a mud bath, a sulfer shower, I got a deep tissue massage and lounged around with a bunch of retires at the Dead Sea Spa. We both floated in the dead sea for 20 minutes, the water is so salty that as you lie in it, you are about 50% out of the water. It's almost like sitting inflatable beach recliner.



Tomorrow at dawn we hike to the top of Masada to look at the ruins of a Jewish stronghold that was overrun by the Romans in 73AD.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Multi-tenant parking israeli style


I saw this in old Jaffa, pretty slick..


Please Excuse Typos and Brevity
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Fw: Mustard arrives




Smelling like hand rolled smokes and drinking beer before noon, mustard arrived in ta last night.

Tel aviv at night from old jaffa


Please Excuse Typos and Brevity
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Sunset TA....430


Just like Santa Monica, only a little early...

Please Excuse Typos and Brevity
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

Friday, December 4, 2009

In TA



Guys who look like hipsters shouldering loaded automatic weapons, a sign you are in Tel Aviv.

Please Excuse Typos and Brevity
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Ryanair morocco to london


I can only imagine how annoying this would be on southwest.

Please Excuse Typos and Brevity
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Day at the links at Agadir National


How many people can say they have played golf in Morocco? Soren and I set out for one of the local dog tracks to get in a round. I was on track to have the best game of my life until about the 5th hole and I melted down. For about 400DH we got clubs, balls, caddies, and played the front 9 and had a beer. Good pricing.